Our riverboat guide, Clinton, leans in with a smile and shares a surprising fact. “Did you know that hippos aren’t actually great swimmers, but elephants are fantastic in the water?” he asks.
We’re cruising along the Victoria Nile River in Murchison Falls National Park, located in north-west Uganda. Hippos are all around us, their eyes peeking out of the water. Clinton explains, “It might look like they’re swimming, but their feet are actually resting on the muddy riverbed.”
Suddenly, my fellow travelers gasp.
In the middle of the river, a family of elephants is making its way across. They wade through the water, their bellies submerged, while their feet touch the shallow riverbed. The baby elephants hold tightly to their mothers’ tails for safety.
The majestic bull elephant flaps his ears as our boat approaches.
Behind him, the teenage elephants are having a blast, playing around like oversized labradors. They spray water everywhere, and one dives underwater, using his trunk as a snorkel. “See how they swim?” Clinton points out.
Discovering Uganda’s Safari Wonders
Uganda, a small landlocked country in East Africa, is a hidden gem for wildlife enthusiasts.
Nestled between Kenya and Tanzania, Uganda offers incredible safari experiences at a fraction of the cost compared to its neighbors.
A safari here costs around £200 per day, which is 30 percent cheaper than in Kenya.
The advantage of a Ugandan safari is the tranquility. You won’t find yourself surrounded by a sea of other vehicles trying to capture the perfect lion shot.
If your budget allows, you can also visit the gorillas in the Bwindi Impenetrable Forest, where permits are half the price compared to Rwanda.
Accommodation in Uganda is varied and authentic, often built with eco-friendly techniques. English is widely spoken, and the country is relatively stable, having recovered from the civil wars of the 1970s and 1980s.
Current President Yoweri Museveni has been in power since 1986, following the ousting of Idi Amin, though his tenure is increasingly scrutinized for human rights issues.
Planning Your Trip
For a well-rounded adventure, Buutu Safaris (buutusafaris.com) offers a three-day safari in Murchison Falls for £1,150 per person. This package includes all meals, accommodation, transport, and guides.
Flights from Heathrow start at £520 return with Turkish Airlines (turkishairlines.com). Ugandan visas are easy to obtain online for £40, and you’ll need a yellow fever vaccination.
Exploring Murchison Falls
Murchison Falls is Uganda’s largest game park.
At dawn, I set off with my driver, Ibra, for a land-based safari adventure. We spot a small herd of giraffes moving with their distinctive, graceful gait. One of them reaches up to nibble from a thorn tree, and we’re so close that I can see the individual chin hairs on a big male giraffe.
Ibra shares an interesting fact: “Giraffes have the same number of neck vertebrae as humans – seven – but theirs can be up to 10 inches long.”
As we continue, various antelope dart around our jeep, while a group of water buffalos watches us with wary eyes from a nearby waterhole.
Later, we come across a cluster of other safari vehicles watching a lion moving stealthily through the tall grass. It’s an adrenaline-pumping moment.
We also spot a hyena running across the bush. Ibra admits he’s never seen one move like that before.
More Than Just Safari
Uganda isn’t only about safaris. The cities offer vibrant dining and nightlife, with music and dancing playing a significant role in local culture. Women in colorful wrap skirts and headscarves dominate the open-air markets, showcasing an array of fresh produce like mangos, pineapples, and avocados.
If you’re a fan of carbs, Ugandan food is a treat. My personal favorite is the Rolex – a fresh omelette wrapped in chapatti, made right in front of you at roadside stalls.
Unwinding at Lake Bunyonyi
After the thrill of spotting the Big Five, I headed to Lake Bunyonyi for some relaxation.
Known for its serene environment and bird-watching opportunities, I was picked up by boat and taken to my lodge on one of the 29 islands. Blue kingfishers and regal-crested cranes flitted around as I settled into a thatched hut with an outdoor shower warmed by the sun.
On my final day, I enjoyed watching kingfishers dart in the shallows and regal-crested cranes soar by, reflecting on the playful teenage elephants I’d seen earlier on the Nile.
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